Al dente refers to the ideal texture of cooked pasta, where it is firm to the bite but not hard or undercooked.
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The Origin of the Bizarre Method of Testing Pasta Doneness
“To check if spaghetti is cooked, grab a forkful and throw it against the wall: if it sticks, it’s ready.”
Many of us have heard this advice before, and can’t get rid of the thought that this is how Italians determine when it’s time to drain the pasta. Of course, no one in Italy would ever dream of doing such a thing, but nonetheless, this story has become one of the many stereotypes about Italians and their cooking methods.
This fascinating, albeit implausible, method of testing pasta doneness likely originated from a cookbook that enjoyed moderate success in North America titled You Can Cook If You Can Read by Muriel and Cortland Fitz-Simmons, published in New York in 1946. Like all urban legends, this one contains a kernel of truth; otherwise, it wouldn’t explain its enduring longevity and wide dissemination.
What does Al Dente mean?
Today when pasta is cooked al dente, it should offer a slight resistance when bitten into, rather than being overly soft or mushy.
The origin of the word is rather mushy though. There is a theory about “al dente” originally meaning “to ones liking” with an old adage “Accomodare una cosa al dente di alcuno.” that translates to “To suit something to someone’s taste.” supporting the idea.
“Accomodare una cosa al dente di alcuno.”
Al Dente Pasta: A Recent Development
The preference for al dente pasta is the result of a revolution—or, as some might say, a relatively recent “conquest”—even within Italy. Comparing cooking times from historical cookbooks reveals a rather startling picture.
As early as the 15th-century Libro de Arte Coquinaria by Maestro Martino, pasta made from flour, egg white, and water was described. This pasta could be dried and preserved for a long time but required very long cooking times.
For vermicelli, hand-shaped into small strings, Martino prescribed an hour of boiling, while macaroni required up to two hours. In the centuries that followed, not much changed, even with the advent of the first industrial pasta factories.
But when did people start cooking pasta al dente? Certainly not before the 19th century.
Cooking Times in the 19th and 20th Centuries
Starting in the 1830s, at least 15 cookbooks provided guidance on pasta cooking times.
In 1844’s La Cucina Facile, an hour-long cooking time was recommended, while Il Cuoco Sapiente (1871) reduced this to 45 minutes.
By the late 19th century, books like La Vera Cucina Genovese and Il Cuciniere Militare (1932) suggested cooking pasta for 15–20 minutes. However, as late as 1913, Giulia Ferraris Tamburini’s cookbook Come Posso Mangiare Bene? still recommended cooking macaroni with sauce for an hour and “Italian-style macaroni with butter and cheese” for 20 minutes—though these were subjected to a secondary “risotto-style” cooking process in salted water or broth.
In that latter recipe, a rare note about texture appears: the macaroni should only be drained “when they easily fall apart under finger pressure.” Similarly, Francesco Chapusot’s La Cucina Sana (1846) advised boiling “Piedmontese-style macaroni” for 45 minutes until they became “soft and mushy.”
Complicating matters, until the first half of the 20th century, only premium pasta was made exclusively from durum wheat (which gives pasta its firmness). Most common pasta varieties contained up to 50% soft wheat, which significantly affected their texture.
Outliers (Especially in Southern Italy)
Against this broader trend, some voices advocated for firmer pasta. For instance, in 1837, Ippolito Cavalcanti recommended draining spaghetti “vierdi vierdi”—a dialect term meaning unripe or firm, predating the modern term al dente. Unsurprisingly, Cavalcanti’s cookbook was written by a Neapolitan, as the tradition of draining pasta while it still had firmness began in Southern Italy.
Over time, this culinary revolution spread northward, only becoming fully established in Northern Italy after World War II. Outside of Italy, however, the preference for al dente pasta continues to face resistance.
Why Al Dente Pasta Is Not Popular Outside of Italy
The explanation lies in the mass migrations of Italians abroad that began in the second half of the 19th century. This massive exodus not only transported large numbers of people beyond Italy’s borders but also carried with it the entire culinary heritage of a nation, including its products, recipes, and cooking methods.
Inevitably, the cuisine that took root abroad reflected the traditions of their ancestors. For decades, their culinary habits remained confined within Italian immigrant communities, preserving the cooking styles of the past.
It was only later that Italian culinary culture began to integrate with and influence the host countries, evolving differently from its original form. This has even led to the survival of certain ancient dishes abroad that have since completely disappeared in Italy, thanks to a stronger tendency to preserve traditions.
This brings us back to the spaghetti thrown against the wall: this legend likely finds its origins in the habit of Italian emigrants overcooking pasta until it became sticky, as was customary at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th.
Summary
- Don’t throw pasta to the wall. Ever.
- Al dente means the pasta still offers a slight resistance when bitten into, rather than being overly soft or mushy.
- There is more than one way to cook pasta. Enjoy!
