Bored of traditional beef or just want to splash on something truly special? Check out how wagyu will take flavors to the next level!
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Japan’s premium beef is celebrated for its succulent and sumptuous qualities, offering a flavor experience unlike any other. Known as “wagyu,” which translates to “Japanese beef,” this delicacy comes from four specific breeds along with their crossbreeds:
- Japanese Black
- Japanese Brown
- Japanese Shorthorn
- Japanese Polled
Among these, the highest grade is attributed to cattle born and raised exclusively in Japan. In keeping with the meat’s esteemed reputation, cattle are often reared with special, sometimes luxurious, care practices that enhance its distinctive richness and tenderness.
Why WAGYU Is Different?
Wagyu’s most defining characteristic is its buttery-soft texture. The fat, rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, is delicately woven throughout the muscle in a fine marbling pattern, creating an exceptionally tender, melt-in-the-mouth experience. Known for a sweet, mellow aroma, wagyu stands apart from other types of beef. Traditional Japanese cooking methods, such as thinly slicing for sukiyaki or shabu-shabu, showcase this marbling and texture, enhancing the unique flavor profile.
Wagyu cattle are raised and bred under strict guidelines to protect and preserve their pedigrees. Each calf receives an individual identification number at birth, allowing complete traceability to its farm of origin. Detailed records of birthdate, bloodline, and birthplace are maintained for every cow, ensuring a commitment to quality and heritage.
Wagyu cattle are raised with exceptional care from farm to specialized facilities. Breeders typically rear them for eight to ten months before auction, where they are sold to farmers who will continue their upbringing. Creating a comfortable, low-stress environment for these cattle is prioritized, as such conditions are believed to contribute to the meat’s renowned tenderness. Pregnant cows and breeding bulls graze on open pastures, while calves and other bulls receive a high-grade diet of rice plants, wheat, and hay. Clean water, fresh air, spacious ranches, and personalized care all play essential roles in producing wagyu of the highest quality.
How Wagyu Is Graded?
Renowned worldwide for exceptional quality and a rich, unctuous texture, wagyu beef must adhere to the strict grading standards established by the Japan Meat Grading Association.
Grading is conducted on two scales: the first assesses the yield ratio of edible meat cuts, from A-class to C-class, while the second evaluates the quality of the marbled fat on a scale from 1 to 5. For the highest quality, wagyu graded as A-4 or A-5 is recommended. During the grading process, key factors are assessed, including marbling content, color and luster, firmness and texture, and the brightness and quality of the fat.
Wagyu’s esteemed reputation has even led to a dedicated event known as the “Wagyu Olympics.” This National Competitive Exhibition of Wagyu (Zenkoku Wagyu Noryoku Kyoshinkai), held every five years by the Wagyu Registry Association, recognizes outstanding wagyu cattle. From among 500 cattle, one is awarded the prestigious title of “Champion Cow” for superior meat quality.
How Wagyu Is Protected?
A logo established by the Japan Livestock Industry Association helps identify authentic wagyu from Japan, setting it apart from crossbred varieties produced in countries like the United States, Australia, and the United Kingdom. This logo is applied to wagyu born and raised exclusively in Japan and intended for export. When selecting wagyu outside of Japan, the presence of this logo serves as a trusted indicator of high-quality, authentic meat.
Wagyu in the US
Distinctions also exist for wagyu based on origin. “Kobe beef,” for instance, signifies wagyu from the Kobe region in Japan and must meet strict standards to carry this designation, similar to appellations in wine. Another well-regarded variety, Snow Beef, is produced in Hokkaido.
With Japanese wagyu being restricted in the United States until 2012, confusion and misuse of the term have become common. Terms like “Kobe beef” are often used inaccurately, sometimes applied to other beef products, making it challenging to ensure authenticity.
Japanese marbling is graded on a 12-point scale, with Kobe typically scoring 10 or higher. Other Japanese wagyu can reach similar scores, and top-tier Japanese wagyu generally scores between 10 and 12. In comparison, American-raised wagyu and hybrids usually score between six and nine, while USDA Prime, the highest American beef grade, reaches around four.
The true distinction of wagyu lies in its genetics. Unlike crossbred cattle, the lineage of Japanese wagyu is preserved meticulously. For Kobe beef, every ancestor must have been born in Hyogo Prefecture, ensuring pure bloodlines. This genetic purity yields a unique fat composition—higher in unsaturated fatty acids, including oleic acid, which creates the “melts-in-your-mouth” sensation. The unsaturated fats in wagyu possess a melting point below 98.6°F, allowing them to dissolve smoothly on the palate, enhancing the beef’s signature tenderness.
Wagyu types
On Hokkaido’s snowy plains, Fujio Terauchi raises purebred Kuroge black wagyu on a diet rich in the island’s notably sweet corn. The cold climate encourages a thicker coat and influences fat distribution, with slightly less marbling and more exterior fat. This variety, though still highly marbled, is described as milder than Kobe, offering a sweet flavor that some find less overwhelming.
According to Devin Hashimoto, executive chef at Mizumi in the Wynn Las Vegas resort, “It is still very highly marbled, but it’s milder than Kobe,” with a distinctive sweetness influenced by Hokkaido’s cold climate and corn-rich diet. Wagyu’s ultra-richness makes it ideal for small servings, as only a few bites can saturate the palate. Snow Beef provides a similar richness but offers a slightly lighter taste, making it more approachable for extended enjoyment.
Snow Beef is so rare that it is unavailable even on the main island of Honshu. Until recently, sampling it required a visit to Hokkaido or a specific restaurant in Singapore. Outside of its island origin, only four restaurants worldwide offer this delicacy, with three located in the United States, including Mizumi. Guests from Tokyo often visit excited to experience it for the first time in Las Vegas.
While Snow Beef may be the rarest variety, several renowned regional types of Japanese beef are now accessible, including Ohmi, Miyazaki, Matsuzaka, and Kobe. Experts generally agree that at the highest quality, these varieties are nearly indistinguishable, although Kobe consistently ranks among the top. Only the finest grades of wagyu (A4 and A5 on a five-point scale that assesses marbling and three additional attributes) are exported to the US, so the specific variety sampled is less significant. This represents a remarkable change for red meat enthusiasts, with unprecedented opportunities to enjoy some of the world’s most esteemed beef.
However, the popularity of Kobe beef, recognized widely by American consumers, has made it the most frequently counterfeited food in the country. Similarly, menus featuring the term “wagyu” often do not guarantee that the meat originates from Japan. Reports indicate that up to 80% of extra-virgin olive oil in America may be counterfeit, and over 80% of red snapper sold in retail stores and restaurants is neither red nor snapper. Alarmingly, more than 99% of Kobe beef in the US is likely to be fraudulent. For much of the 21st century, the odds of experiencing genuine Kobe or any Japanese-raised beef in the country were slimmer than winning a lottery.
The importation of Japanese beef was largely banned by the USDA due to concerns over bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), commonly known as mad cow disease. Before the 2001 ban, only a few upscale Japanese restaurants and high-end steakhouses imported Kobe, as it was the only well-known Japanese beef. The ban was lifted less than four years ago, opening new avenues for beef enthusiasts. In the interim, the lack of authentic competition allowed many restaurants to advertise “Kobe” and counterfeit “wagyu.” What was once a luxury steak priced at $300 became “Kobe sliders” at neighborhood taverns, “Kobe hot dogs” at chains, and $50 “Kobe burgers” at celebrity chef establishments—all without a trace of the real thing.
Currently, while genuine Kobe beef is once again available, it remains extremely limited. Only a handful of restaurants across the US serve authentic Kobe, and none is available for retail purchase. This creates a dilemma regarding substitutes. Occasionally, meat labeled as Kobe may be premium Japanese wagyu, but more often it is less valuable. Sometimes, it may originate from domestic purebred cattle with Japanese ancestry, Australian hybrids, or even “wangus,” a popular crossbreed of Japanese wagyu and Angus. The reality can also be far less favorable, with items like “Kobe sliders” often consisting of standard supermarket beef. Experts generally agree that even the best domestic wagyu typically falls short of its Japanese counterpart, with the finest domestic versions being quite rare.
The limited supply of Kobe has resulted in restaurants and distributors being licensed by Japan’s Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association. Reports indicate that the number of establishments serving genuine Kobe beef in the US has now reached eight. Recently, the owner of Le Bernardin, a prestigious three-Michelin-star restaurant in New York, acknowledged the misrepresentation of “Kobe” on its menu and amended the wording. However, the establishment does serve high-quality imported Japanese wagyu. The scarcity of Kobe has prompted chefs like Michael Mina and Wolfgang Puck to seek alternative premium Japanese regional varieties; Puck sources his from Miyazaki, while Mina has established direct import arrangements from Matsuzaka. According to Mina, “It’s about giving [diners] an experience. Since they lifted the ban, it’s going to give more people the chance to try this great product—people who have never tried it before.”
Many Americans, including discerning food enthusiasts, have never sampled any high-quality Japanese beef, even if they believe they have. Takuya Ozawa, former sous-chef at Tokyo’s New York Grill, recalls,
“When people come from America, I always suggest the Kobe, because I know it is new for them.”
Takuya Ozawa
However, he frequently encounters visitors from the US who claim to have had Kobe beef but are surprised by the vastly different taste experience.
True wagyu differs so significantly from other high-end steaks, such as USDA Prime, French Charolais, Scottish Aberdeen Angus, or Italian Chianina, that it may as well originate from a different species. The unique fat distribution found in wagyu is so distinctive that it is easily recognizable. Sampling authentic Japanese wagyu is an experience all food lovers should pursue, especially given the increasing opportunities to find it in major cities. However, caution is advised, as the market also sees a rise in counterfeits. The current landscape can be characterized as a golden age for authentic Japanese beef, accompanied by a simultaneous prevalence of fake options.
Optimal Doneness for Wagyu Steaks
Determining the ideal doneness for wagyu steaks can vary based on personal preferences, as there is no universally accepted standard. While different opinions exist regarding preferred levels of doneness, Japanese wagyu is generally regarded as best enjoyed at around medium doneness. In contrast, American steaks typically reach their peak flavor and tenderness at medium-rare, although medium is also considered very good.
The thinner cuts of Japanese steaks allow for quicker cooking, which is often viewed positively. Thanks to the abundant intramuscular fat present in Japanese wagyu, the risk of drying out is minimized. In fact, a little extra heat is beneficial for melting the internal fat. Consistently enjoyable pieces of Japanese wagyu can be found, primarily due to this intramuscular fat, which acts as a self-basting agent, ensuring juiciness regardless of cooking time. Achieving medium-rare or below can be challenging with the thin Japanese cuts; any sear applied results in the interior reaching higher doneness levels.
American steaks, whether wagyu or Black Angus, tend to resemble the classic steaks found at traditional American steakhouses or local butcher shops. In contrast, Japanese wagyu offers a unique experience, described as a burst of rich beef fat upon chewing, melting further due to the warmth of the mouth. The experience is akin to savoring foie gras—best enjoyed in small portions rather than as a large serving accompanied by sides.
How to Prepare Wagyu
Grilling and cast iron searing are suitable methods for preparing wagyu due to the control they allow over heat and the unique qualities of each. These approaches effectively harness the natural marbling and thin cuts of wagyu, especially Japanese A5 varieties, to bring out optimal flavor and texture without overcomplicating the process.
Cast Iron Method
- Cast iron skillets provide a stable, even heat that enables a perfectly crisp sear on wagyu, achieving a flavorful crust without risking overcooking.
- This method works particularly well with thin Japanese wagyu cuts, as they reach ideal internal doneness just as the exterior sears, without the need for additional techniques like sous vide.
- Thicker American wagyu steaks also cook beautifully in cast iron, simply requiring a few flips to reach medium-rare in the center while developing a rich crust. This straightforward pan-sear allows wagyu’s natural flavors to stand out without needing to add butter or aromatics.
Grilling with Binchotan (Japanese Charcoal)
- Grilling wagyu over binchotan charcoal, especially when cut into smaller pieces, imparts a light charred flavor that complements wagyu’s rich marbling without overwhelming it.
- Japanese wagyu benefits from this method, where the meat is placed close to the coals on a mesh wire grate, allowing it to brown nicely without intense flare-ups, as the coals can be adjusted for quick control.
- Although grilling works less effectively for American wagyu due to its lower marbling, keeping the steak whole on the grill ensures better retention of tenderness and juiciness, allowing it to cook evenly and avoid becoming chewy.
In summary, the cast iron pan and controlled grilling over binchotan capture wagyu’s delicate balance of internal richness and exterior sear without overpowering its flavor or causing unwanted flare-ups. Simple, direct techniques emphasize wagyu’s inherent qualities, making these methods ideal for preparing this premium beef.
Serving Wagyu Steak
Serving wagyu steak is a straightforward process. Seasoning the steaks with salt allows the natural flavors of the meat to shine, with the option to add a touch more salt after cooking.
For Japanese A5 wagyu, a serving size of one to two ounces per person is recommended. This means a 13-ounce steak can satisfy the appetites of six to twelve individuals. For those interested in a tasting flight to compare different steaks, having more tasters present is beneficial. Keeping servings modest helps ensure that the investment in high-quality meat is truly appreciated.
In situations where a limited number of tasters are available, and smaller portions of A5 Japanese wagyu cannot be sourced, dividing the steaks into smaller pieces is advisable. Cooking a little at a time while keeping the remainder frozen ensures quality is maintained. Fortunately, the high fat content of wagyu makes it easy to cut while still frozen, much like fatty pork. It may be necessary to allow the meat to soften slightly, but full thawing is not required before cutting into smaller portions. The pieces that are not cooked immediately should be tightly wrapped or vacuum sealed in individual portions for future enjoyment.
For American wagyu and Black Angus steaks, a 16-ounce portion typically serves one to two people. For those seeking a hearty beef meal, these options are ideal. It is advisable to avoid attempting to transform Japanese A5 wagyu into a steakhouse-style feast, as this may detract from the unique experience that the high-quality wagyu provides.
